Once you get some crochet time under your belt and have your stable of go-to stitches, you’re ready to move to more of the advanced ones. While these different crochet stitches may seem difficult, once you master the basics new crochet stitches can quickly become a natural part of your repertoire.
This stable of stitches will grant your projects tons of texture, lending your work a unique look that you don’t often see — transforming an everyday baby blanket or pair of socks into something truly spectacular.
Before Your Begin
All crocheters should be comfortable with easy crochet stitches like chain stitches, single crochet stitches, double crochet stitches, triple crochet loop stitch, treble crochet stitch, and, of course, reading crochet patterns. It’s also helpful if you’re familiar with some more complicated stitches like the bobble stitch, puff stitch, cluster stitches, shell stitch, and waffle stitch – not required but helpful as they’re a step beyond basic crochet stitches.
Let's Get Started
The fun stitches below build on these basics and incorporate more advanced techniques – such as using the front post double crochet and the back post double crochet – to achieve the texture found in many of these stitches. Have fun learning these interesting crochet stitches and taking your crochet skills to the next level!
Chevron Stitch
The chevron stitch is an intermediate stitch you can use for afghans, lapghans, scarves, and most other items you can crochet. This stitch creates a pattern of repeating Vs. It uses three stitches:
- The chain stitch: ch.
- Single crochet: sc.
- Single crochet three together: sc3tog.
To start the chevron stitch, make a foundation chain that is a multiple of 12 stitches plus an additional two stitches at the end. The multiples you use determines how many Vs you will have. For example, a multiple of three, which is 38 stitches – 36 plus the two at the end – will give you three Vs.
Instructions for a Practice Piece
Ch 38 (we used 26 for our practice piece).
Row 1: 2 sc in the second ch from the hook. *Sc in each of the next four chains. Sc3tog. Sc in the next four chains. 3 sc in the next stitch. Repeat from * to end. In the last stitch, 3 sc.
Row 2: Ch 1 and turn work. 2 sc in second sc (counts and first 3 sc). *Sc in next 4 stitches. Sc3tog. Repeat from * to the end. In the last stitch, crochet 3 additional sc for a total of four sc in the last stitch.
Row 3: Repeat Row 2 until you reach the desired length.
The chevron stitch repeats the pattern, so it’s one of the easiest stitches to use for many projects as long as they do not change horizontal size. This stitch is not a good stitch to use in the round unless you add additional stitches for each round.
Waistcoat Stitch
The waistcoat, also known as the knit stitch, uses the chain (ch) and single crochet (sc) stitches. The difference is that you insert the hook in the middle of the post part of the stitch – in the middle of the inverted V. Once you get the hang of it, it’s straightforward and one of my favorite stitches for various crochet projects.
When working the waistcoat stitch, be sure to keep the stitches loose. The first row of the waistcoat stitch is tight, and you’ll have to work the hook into the inverted V. As your piece gets longer, it becomes easier to get the hook into the post part of the stitch as long as you keep the stitches relatively loose.
Step 1. Insert the hook into the inverted V.
Step 2. Yarn over and pull through both loops on the hook.
You do not need a specific number of stitches. To create a practice piece:
Ch 11.
Row 1: Sc in the second chain from the hook. Sc to the end. You should have 10 stitches.
Row 2: Insert the hook in the first inverted V. Finish the sc for that stitch. Repeat to the end. You will have 9 stitches. For the last stitch, crochet a regular crochet in the last stitch.
Repeat Row 2 until you have the length you want.
You can use this stitch for anything you want to have a thicker feel. It’s a great stitch for working in the round. You can make afghans, lapghans, baskets, hats, scarves and just about anything with this stitch. Because it is a denser stitch, it is warmer and perfect for hats.
Basket Weave Stitch
The basket stitch is a fun stitch that uses the chain (ch) stitch, double crochet (dc), front post double crochet (fpcd) and back post double crochet (bpdc) stitches. It is an intermediate stitch. When working it, you must be careful not to twist the chain and the first row. Once you have three or four rows done, the chain doesn’t twist as easily.
The front post double crochet is worked around the front of the post of the current stitch. Yarn over, then insert the hook under the stitch from the front of the post, around the rear of the stitch, and then back through the stitch on the other side of the post. Yarn over, then draw the yarn through the first two loops. Yarn over, then draw the yarn through the last two loops.
The back post double crochet is worked around the back of the current post. Yarn over, then insert the hook under the stitch from the rear of the post, around the front of the stitch, then back through the stitch on the other side of the post. Yarn over, then draw the yarn through the first two loops. Yarn over, then draw the yarn through the last two loops.
To make a sample square:
Ch 20. The turning chain counts as the first dc throughout the pattern.
Row 1: Dc into the fourth chain from the hook. Dc in each chain across the row. You should have 18 stitches.
Row 2: Ch 3. Turn the work. * Fpdc in the first four dc. Bpdc in the next four. Repeat from * across the row. In the last stitch (the top of the turning chain), dc.
Row 3: Repeat Row 2 until it looks as though you have even squares across the row. Using 4-ply yarn and a 7mm hook, it took three rows.
Row 4: Repeat Row 2 if needed to make an even square.
Row 5: Ch 3. Turn the work. *Bpdc in the first four dc. Fpdc in the next four. Repeat from * across the row. In the last stitch (the top of the turning chain), dc.
Rows 6 – 8: Repeat Row 5 for three rows (or however many times you crocheted Row 2).
Row 9: Repeat Row 2 for three rows.
Row 10: Repeat Row 5 for three rows.
Continue until you reach the length you need.
The basket stitch is best for items worked in the flat, such as afghans, lapghans and scarves.
Aligned Cobble Stitch
The aligned cobble stitch is a textured crochet stitch that creates a piece with a lot of structure. It has a pebbled look and is symmetrical. While it’s an advanced stitch, it’s an easy stitch. It uses the chain (ch) stitch, single crochet (sc) stitch and treble crochet (tr) stitch.
You can start with any number of stitches plus 1 for the turning chain. To create a practice piece:
Ch 10.
Row 1: Sc in the second chain from hook and sc in each chain until the end of the row. You should have 9 sc.
Row 2: Ch 1. Turn the work. Sc the first stitch. * Tr in the next stitch. Sc in the next stitch. Repeat from * to the end of the row, ending with a sc in the last ch stitch.
Row 3: Sc in each stitch until the end of the row.
Row 4: Repeat Row 2.
Continue repeating Rows 3 and 4 until the project reaches the desired length.
The aligned cobble stitch is good for making lapghans, afghans, fingerless gloves, tea towels, totes, and even hats.
Crocodile Stitch
The crocodile stitch is a difficult stitch that uses the chain (ch) stitch, double crochet (dc), and slip stitch (slst). Instead of working in rows across the top, you will work one row in the posts, holding your project vertically.
The ch 3 at the beginning of each row counts as a double crochet throughout the pattern. The ch 1 at the beginning of the rows does not count as a stitch.
Work in multiples of 6 plus 4. To create a practice piece:
Ch 21.
Row 1: Dc in the third chain from the hook. * Ch 2, skip 2 chains. Dc in each of the next two chains. Repeat from * to the end of the row. Ch 3.
Turn your work clockwise, so you have the last dc at the top of your work.
Row 2: Dc 4 along the first post.
Ch 1 and turn your work clockwise, so you are working on the very next post and working toward the top of your work.
Dc 5. * Ch 1. Skip the next two dc posts. Grab the next two dc posts with your left hand and turn your work counterclockwise. Dc 5 on the post, working toward the bottom of the work. Ch 1. Turn the work, so you are working on the very next post toward the top of the piece. Dc 5. Repeat from * to the end of the row. Ch 3 and turn, so the first row of scales faces you.
Row 3: Dc in the center of the next scale. * Ch 2. Look for the two dc posts between the shells. 2 dc between the two posts to hold everything together. Repeat from * to the end of the row. Ch 1. Turn your work counterclockwise, so you are working vertically again.
Row 4: Skip the first two double crochets. 5 dc along the next dc post. Ch 1. Rotate the work clockwise, so you are working toward the top and 5 dc along the very next post. * Ch 1. Skip the next two dc posts. Work 5 dc down the next post, working counterclockwise. Ch 1 and rotate clockwise. 5 dc in the very next post. Repeat from * to the end of the row. Ch 1. Slst to the top of the ch 1 space. Ch 3. Turn your work, so the scales are facing you.
Row 5: Dc in the same stitch as the ch 3. * Ch 2. 2 dc in the middle of the next scale. Ch 2. Skip the posts under the shell and 2 dc between the posts between the scales. Repeat from * to the end of the row. Ch 3 and turn.
Repeat Row 2 through Row 5 until you reach the desired length, ending on the second or fourth row.
The crocodile stitch has a lot of texture. It is good for afghans, lapghans, scarves, and other items you work flat.
Diamond Stitch
The diamond crochet stitch makes a beautiful staggered diamond lattice pattern using single crochet (sc), double crochet (dc), front post treble crochet (fptr) and front post treble crochet two together (fptc2tog). After the first set, it used the posts of the previous treble crochet stitches, so the pattern is easier than it looks once you get past the first row of trebles.
Looking for stitches for this intermediate stitch can get confusing, so you can follow the pattern with stitch markers before you actually start crocheting the first row of trebles. The pattern repeats four rows, and once you get past the first four set-up rows, it’s an easy pattern to memorize.
Instead of chaining three, you can use a chainless double crochet: Pull the loop on the hook up about twice the normal length. Hold your finger on top of the loop, so it can’t spin on the hook. Bring the hook toward you, causing the loop to wrap the hook. Yarn over, pull through the first loop, then yarn over and pull through two loops.
If using the chain method, the chain counts as the first stitch.
To crochet a fptr2tog: Yarn over twice. Insert hook from front of piece around stitch. Yarn over. Pull through first loop. Yarn over. Pull through 2. Yarn over. Pull through 2. You should have 2 loops on the hook. Yarn over twice. Insert hook around next stitch. Yarn over. Pull through first loop. Yarn over. Pull through 2 twice. Yarn over, then pull through last three loops on the hook.
You need a multiple of four stitches for this pattern. To create a practice piece:
Ch 20.
Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and across the row.
Row 2: Ch 3 (or chainless dc). If using a chainless dc, skip the first stitch, then dc in each stitch across the row (19 dc).
Row 3: This row is tricky because you have to skip stitches. This is where you might want to use the stitch markers.
Ch 1. Fptr in the second sc in the first row. * Skip the stitch where you would have worked the fptr in the top row. Sc 3 in the top row. Fptr2tog in the post of the first sc where you worked the fptr and in the fourth sc after that stitch. Repeat from * to the last two stitches. Fptr in the same sc as the previous fptr2tog. Skip 1 stitch. Sc in the last stitch.
Row 4: Ch 3 and turn or turn and work a chainless dc. Dc in each stitch across.
Row 5: This row makes the top part of the diamond. Ch 1. Sc 1. *Fptc in the first fptr in the previous odd row. Skip 1. Sc 3. Fptr2tog in the next fptr2tog (top of the V, making sure you catch both legs of the fptr2tog). Repeat from * to the last two stitches. Fptc. Skip 1 stitch. Sc in the last stitch.
You should now see a row of diamonds.
Row 6: Ch 3 and turn or chainless dc and turn. Dc across the row.
Row 7: Ch 1. Turn. Sc 3. Fptr2tog in the top of the fptr leg and the top of the first fptr2tog. Skip 1 sc. * 3 sc. Fptr2tog in the next two fptr2tog. Skip 1 sc. Repeat from * to the end of the row. The last fptr2tog is at the top of the V of the previous fptr2tog and the top of the single fptr. Skip 1. Sc in the last stitch.
Repeat Rows 4 through 7 until you reach the desired length.
This stitch is great for afghans, lapghans, dish towels, washcloths, dish cloths, or, when using bulky yarn, for hot pot plates.
Star Stitch
Ths star stitch creates rows of stitches that look like stars. Each stitch requires multiple loops. You might see this stitch called the daisy stitch, spiked cluster stitch, or the Marguerite stitch. This stitch pattern shows you how to make a star stitch with five spikes.
You’ll need the chain stitch (ch), single crochet (sc), and half double crochet (hdc).
Start start stitch projects with an odd number of stitches. To create a practice pattern:
Ch 21.
Row 1: Insert the hook in the second chain from the end. Yarn over and pull through. You will have two loops on the hook. Insert the hook into the next stitch. Yarn over and pull through. You will have three loops on the hook. Work through the next three chains. You should have six loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull through all six loops. The loops make the spikes on the star.
* Ch 1 to finish the star and create an “eye” in the stitch. Insert the hook into the eye. Yarn over and pull through. You will have two loops on the hook.
Insert the hook into the eye. Yarn over. Pull through. You will have two loops on the hook.
Look for the space near the top of the legs of the last two spikes. Insert the hook, yarn over and pull through for three loops on the hook.
Insert the hook into the same chain for the last stitch of the previous star. It will be at the bottom of the last leg. Yarn over and pull through for four loops on the hook.
1 sc in each of the next two chains for six loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull through all six loops to complete the second star.
Repeat from * until you have one chain left. Hdc in the last chain.
Row 2: Ch 2. Turn. The ch 2 counts as the first hdc. 2 hdc into each eye of the star in the row below. 2 hdc in the last stitch.
Row 3: Ch 3. Insert hook into second ch from hook. Yarn over and pull through. Insert hook into the third chain from the hook. Yarn over and pull through. Insert hook into the next three stitches, one at a time. Yarn over for and pull through for each stitch. You should have six loops on the hook Yarn over and pull through all six loops. Ch 1 to close the star and create the eye.
Repeat the instructions for creating a star across the row. Hdc in the last stitch.
Row 4: Repeat Row 2.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until you reach the desired length.
The start pattern creates a thick stitch, which is perfect for heavy afghans, lapghans and even wash cloths or hot pot plates.
Harlequin Stitch
The harlequin stitch creates a pattern of “wheels.” It is used in Bavarian Squares. This stitch takes a lot of yarn. It’s a pretty stitch that makes for great baby blankets. It uses the chain stitch (ch), single crochet (sc), and double crochet (dc). It uses a multiple of eight plus 1 stitches. To create a practice piece:
Ch 25.
Row 1: Starting in the fifth chain from the hook, crochet 3 dc, 1 ch, 3 dc (shell) in the same stitch. Skip 3 chains. 1 sc in th next chain. * Skip 3 chains. Shell in the next chain. Skip 3 chains, 1 sc in the next chain. Repeat from * across the row.
Row 2: Ch 3. Turn work. Skip first sc. Dc3tog in next 3 dc. * Ch 7, skip 1 ch, dc6tog in each of next six dc, skipping the sc. Repeat from * across the row. End with dc3tog in each of last three dc, 1 dc in the top of the last chain.
Row 3: Ch 3. Turn. 3 dc in the first space from the row below (the hole created between the dc3tog and the dc). * 1 sc in the chain 1 space in the row below (catch the ch 7 in the stitch). Shell in the “eye” of the dc6tog. Repeat from *. End with 3 dc in the eye of the dc3tog and 1 dc in the top of the turning chain.
Row 4: Ch 4. Turn. Skip first dc. * Dc6tog over next 6 dc. Skip ch space. Repeat from *. End with ch 3 and 1 sc in the top of the turning chain.
Row 5: Ch 1. Turn. Skip first sc and the ch 3. * Shell in the eye of the dc6tog, sc in the chain space from the below row (catch the chain in the sc). Repeat from * to the end of the row. End with 1 sc in the first of the four turning chains.
Repeat Rows 4 and 5 until you reach the desired length.
A similar stitch is used to create a Bavarian Square, which is worked in the round. If you want a perfectly square afghan, instead of a rectangle, you can use this stitch in the round. Working as a flat piece, you can crochet afghans, lapghans, pot holders, pot hot plates to protect the table and more.
Spike Stitch
The spike stitch uses chains (ch) and single crochet (sc) stitches. It uses a long single crochet to make the spikes. To create a sample, use mulitples of eight plus six chains.
Ch 30
Rows 1-4: Sc across the row. Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row, except Row 4. At the end of Row 4, change colors. Ch 1. Turn.
Row 5: 4 sc. * Spike. Skip 1 sc (behind the long loops in the top row – you may have to push the 2nd color yarn over to grab that first stitch after the spike). 7 sc. Repeat across row.
To create the spike: Insert the hook one row down and one stitch back and pull up a long loop. Insert hook in next stitch 2 rows down and pull up a long loop. Insert hook in next stitch 3 rows down and pull up loop. You should have the first side of a V complete.
Insesrt hook into next stitch one row up and pull up loop. Insert hook into next stitch one row up and pull up a long loop. The long loops should look like a V. Yarn over and pull through all loops.
Row 6-8: Sc across the entire row.
Row 9: So the spikes are offset, sc 8. * Spike. Skip 1. 7 sc. Repeat from * to end of row.
Repeat Rows 5-9 to desired length.
You can change color each time you come to a spike row, you can alternate two colors, or you can even use the same color throughout the pattern.
Tying It Off
Once you get the hang of some of these intermediate and more difficult crochet stitches, your next crochet project will come alive with beautifully textured, intricate designs that will move your work well beyond basic stitches.
You’ll discover as you learn how to crochet with these beautiful stitches that some work up very fast and some take a little longer, but all produce a wonderful texture. Some use a lot of yarn, but still work up fast. Grab a few free crochet patterns and see which new stitch is the perfect stitch for your next project.
Happy crocheting!
